With two days of New York Fashion Week in the works, it’s time to take stock of the mood. Are people wearing masks? Uh, not really, especially celebrities. Are there any good things? Actually, yes: Collina Strada and Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and everyone’s talking about Bode’s young protégé Connor McKnight. Rumors are circulating about who’s vaxxed and who isn’t, and how advertisers and brands are bending the rules. Good festivities? Well, a Gawker Party held on Wednesday night at the Bowery Hotel Terrace made me wonder if the site has any ambition to be a powerful player in fashion media – its design reminds me a bit. The nice woman– but in fact, they didn’t even know it was Fashion Week! The editors, nice people who really love each other, came together as an inclusive sorority, eating mini cones of truffle fries and pigs in a blanket. Not a scene you would ever see at a fashion party, where the quality of the event is measured by the level of chaos and the food is downright ignored. Ignorance is really bliss.
The highlight of Wednesday’s menswear, which hosted two sessions of New York Men’s Day, was undoubtedly Maryam Nassir Zadeh. The legendary downtown designer launched menswear last October with great success, and this collection was roughly 50 percent menswear, with plenty of awesome pants and cuts executed in the humble style. -chic from the creator.
“Men have evolved from where I feel now, they really have a place in the MNZ world,” said Nassir Zadeh, who radiates warmth, after the show. “I almost feel stronger in men than in women.”
The collection also marked a perhaps surprising ambition for Nassir Zadeh’s menswear: it could be New York’s best new skate brand. The designer called this men’s clothing offering a “more heartfelt” evolution of the “simple building blocks” of buttons and pleated pants she started with last fall, a collection inspired by a New York skater whose she had fallen in love. . For this show, the cast was filled with skaters and other members of the MNZ tribe – the great Andre Walker, husband of creator Uday Kak – and wants to be “really unisex”. Pants are the holy grail of style for any skateboarder, and Nassir Zadeh’s, in crisp fabrics but cut to wobble slightly, was the flagship. And one of the models, pro skater Tyler Blue Golden, gave her “tips on what boys look at and the length of things.” But unlike the myriad of brands trying to align with sport and culture (much like the male equivalent of ballet), “I feel like we’re already there,” said Nassir Zadeh. It is’ in this place where it was accessible to [New York skaters] on a visceral intestinal reaction [level] From the beginning. It’s not like we have to convince them.
She attributed the symbiosis to her way of approaching color and fabrics, which really rings true. But part of what makes Nassir Zadeh’s work appealing is that, in a fashion industry dominated by strategy and overly thoughtful partnerships, she works out of instinct and pure emotion. Its domain is desire and reverie; she’s one of the few designers working in America who can pull that old lever of lust, when you see something on the runway and just want it. His pants fill the void for any guy looking for vintage Armani pants; her clothes have a grown-up elegance reminiscent of the characters that might populate a Rachel Kushner book, bohemian and blithely oblivious to the professional class.
Before launching the men, Nassir Zadeh was well known among the men who ended up buying her because their partners carried all of her things – friends of downtown artists, musicians and skaters, the kind to hang out with. Dev Hynes (who was in attendance) and Ian Isaiah (who performed beautifully with Onyx Collective). Her sensitivity has cultivated an understanding that resembles the little devotion to Supreme before it really exploded. (In fact, Aaron Wiggs, the extraordinary Supreme employee and curbside sales organizer, entered the show.) Nassir Zadeh said the Supreme comparison is “a huge compliment, but our company is so tiny compared to Supreme. But it’s not the business, it’s the attitude and the cultural status of the brand, the feeling that Nassir Zadeh does something for connoisseurs. She doesn’t need to advertise in Thrasher or Quartersnacks, but if she did, she would look right at home.
On either side of MNZ, I visited New York Men’s Day. Between Supreme, Bode, and Telfar, menswear is fundamentally the cornerstone of New York style, defining American clothing and setting trends around the world, but the CFDA has struggled to reconcile that energy with its own goals. Many successful brands, like Noah, Aime Leon Dore, and 18 East, seem to think fashion shows are creating unnecessary noise, or perhaps cultivating an audience they don’t care about. Or maybe they just think it’s a waste of money. New York Men’s Day emerged to help fill in the gaps, but while both sessions of the presentations were pleasantly filled, I couldn’t help but feel generally disappointed. It is clear that these designers, who make knotted jackets, printed pants and references, all turn to the same small palette of designers: Evan Kinori for shirt jackets, Christophe Lemaire for pants, and Dries Van Noten for a slightly earthy-globalized style. . The exception was APOTTS, by Detroit-born and Brooklyn-based Aaron Potts, whose fringes, apron skirts and genderless blouses manage to be majestic in their modesty.